Temperature Matters

May 6, 2013

Ever wonder what the best way to cool soup is? Well definitely do NOT just throw hot soup in the fridge unless for some strange reason you think the ice box is in need of a heat wave. Seriously, doing so will raise the temperature in your refrigerator and compromise other cooled items. In my case that would mean putting my husband’s precious, highly-protected, drink with an ice cube milk in peril.  On the other hand, don’t’ leave it on the counter overnight either. In fact, don’t leave any food, including Friday night’s pepperoni and cheese, out all night. Bacteria thrive at room temp creating a good chance you will get sick.  It’s that simple. The USDA actually says 2 hours tops for letting leftovers hang out on the counter. Even Thanksgiving dinner. Tisk, tisk, tisk…….

So to safely cool soup, transfer it to multiple containers, preferably shallow ones that offer the most surface area and then nestle them in a shallow ice bath.  As recommended by Cooks Illustrated, refrigerate once the thermometer reads 85 degrees- about 2 hours. No tummy aches here!

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2 Comments Filed Under: Tips

Sweet Pea

April 20, 2013

It’s a boy! A sweet little pea just in time for spring blooms, little lambs and fluffy golden chicks. He took some coaxing (due date, schmue date) but Cooper finally made Amber a mommy a few short weeks ago.  A delicate little thing that unknowingly holds the power of eternal hope…..Cradling him in my arms I began to comprehend his precious bond to my dear friend and without pause I loved him instantly and silently vowed to be there if the time ever came.

Our introduction was not without celebration and in my book or blog rather, celebration is not without food. Amber’s gentle demeanor endears her to so many that I was only one of a parade of well-wishers bringing dinner and the likes for the new parents.  Pondering the options I discounted soup after soup striving for one that would pair with other dishes to culminate into something equally special for the momentous occasion. Sweet spring peas burst to mind as did the royal lusciousness of Parmegiano- Reggiano and truffles. We are a wee early in Carolina for fresh peas, but luckily the little frozen orbs perfectly suffice when preparing soup…AND they are infinitely more convenient. My philosophy on shelling peas (not that you asked) is that it is a task best served outside with a frosty mug of fresh pressed lemonade recounting the weeks gossip or swapping new recipes found and foods tried with someone you can chat away a lazy afternoon with…or simply sit quietly shelling and sipping.

I almost always find pea soups so basic that they scream baby food (hmm…how appropriate). Green, gloppy, watery, bland….no wonder those itsy bitsy tongues work overtime to push it back out.  Yet should you be fortunate to unearth the perfect bowl in some obscure restaurant you almost discounted on account of an uninspiring first impression, you still probably won’t be satisfied with only a bowl of puréed peas for dinner. I know I wouldn’t and I’ve given it the college try more times than I’d like to remember. Well….I haven’t exactly cracked the code, but I HAVE come up with a decadent version and a fabulous easy pairing that is wholly satisfying, the latter being  a little more elegant than a grilled cheese, but I promise equally dunkable. Introducing….drum roll please…….Gruyere and Rosemary Ham Tart. Celebratory baby arrivals aside, this lovely combination is quite appropriate on a brunch menu or for a simple elegant dinner. A glass of champagne expertly cuts the richness of the meal and provides an opportunity to toast. In our case it was for a new little “Sweet Pea”….welcome to the world Cooper!

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Sweet Pea Bisque with White Truffle Butter

Sweet Pea Bisque with White Truffle Butter

The heat from the soup will be enough to release the distinct truffle aroma which is responsible for the pungent flavor. Too much heat will destroy the aromatics and subdue the flavor. In other words, don’t cook the butter.

Ingredients

  • 2 TBSP olive oil
  • 1 TBSP unsalted butter
  • ¾ cup chopped shallots (about 3 large)
  • ½ cup dry white wine (I used chardonnay)
  • 5 cups homemade chicken broth
  • 8 oz Yukon Gold potato, peeled and chopped into 1/2” chunks
  • 2 lbs frozen peas
  • 2 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
  • 8 oz crème fraiche
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving
  • White truffle butter for serving, softened

Instructions

  1. Melt the butter and olive oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat.
  2. Add the shallots and cook 3-5 minutes until soft and translucent. Stir occasionally.
  3. Add the wine and cook for 3 minutes. It will have reduced by about half.
  4. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the potato, broth, 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper.
  5. Once it comes to a boil, reduce heat and maintain a simmer for 5 minutes.
  6. Pour in the peas, add 1 tsp salt and return to a simmer. Cover and continue to cook for another 5 minutes.
  7. Remove the pan from the heat and using an immersion blender, purree until silky smooth. No lumps!
  8. Strain the soup through a fine mesh sieve that has been placed over a large bowl. Use a spoon to stir the soup and push it against the sides of the sieve. You will be left with about 2 cups of pulp to discard.
  9. Return the strained soup to the pot (I like to clean my pot first, but it’s not essential) and over medium-low heat begin to gently reheat the soup.
  10. Whisk in the crème fraiche followed by the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Do not boil.
  11. Taste for seasonings.
  12. Serve with freshly cracked pepper and swirl in a generous spoonful of white truffle butter.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/04/20/sweet-pea/

Notes:

  1. In case you aren’t familiar with truffles, they are irregular shaped fungi that grow beneath the ground on the roots of trees, primarily in Italy and France.  They take years to grow, are painstakingly difficult to harvest and cannot be cultivated. Add the fact that there is no other flavor like it in the world and you’ve got an uberexpensive ingredient. White truffles are said to have more intensity than their black counterparts, however, their delicate aroma dissipates fast (which is where the flavor comes from). They are best enjoyed fresh and shaved over things like eggs and pasta, but since a pound can cost in the thousands, truffle butter is a delicious substitute for us commoners.
  2. Whole Foods sells both white and black truffle butters as does the online gourmet retailer D’Artagnan  http://www.dartagnan.com/.
  3. If you don’t have a pepper grinder now is the time to buy one. The richness of this soup and the distinctiveness of the peas beg for assertive pepper, which with the uniqueness of the truffle butter, brings it all together.

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Gruyère and Rosemary Ham Tart

Gruyère and Rosemary Ham Tart

If you can’t find rosemary ham, simply use your favorite ham and finely chop some fresh rosemary and sprinkle it over the ham.

Ingredients

  • 14 oz sheet frozen puffed pastry
  • 1/3 lb Rosemary Ham (I used Fra’Mani from Whole Foods)
  • 8 oz aged Gruyère, freshly grated
  • ¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
  • 2 TBSP Dijon mustard
  • Egg wash (1 egg lightly beaten with 1 TBSP of milk)
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Thaw the pastry according to package instructions.
  2. Preheat oven to 425.
  3. Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper.
  4. Roll the pastry out on a floured silicone mat into a 10” x 14” rectangle.
  5. Transfer the silicone mat to the prepared baking sheet.
  6. Use a sharp knife to score a ½” border on the pastry being careful not to go all the way through. Brush the border with egg wash.
  7. Use a fork to prick the pastry all over inside the border.
  8. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.
  9. Spread the mustard evenly inside the border.
  10. Lay the ham over the mustard followed by the gruyere and then the parm.
  11. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
  12. Bake for 20-25 minutes until puffy and golden.
  13. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/04/20/sweet-pea/

 

 

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1 Comment Filed Under: Other Than Soup, Peas Tagged With: , ,

New Friends

April 8, 2013

Doesn’t it just figure that I meet new, fabulous friends right when I’m getting out of Dodge? If you’ve been reading this blog you know I’m quite partial to Savory in Raleigh. Their spices are the finest I’ve encountered and sustained by an immensely knowledgeable staff that is always eager to oblige. Many receipts later, the girth on my circle of friends (thankfully not my waist!!!) has blissfully expanded, so you can imagine my delight upon discovering that one of these new mates lives directly across the green from me! Perhaps if we were 10 we might tether a string adorned with matching soup cans and whisper secret messages from the prying ears of nearby adults. Certainly, a few decades separate us from such youth, but the camaraderie persists. Like me, Lindsay is an avid home cook and with my dear husband away more than not, a few weeks ago she thoughtfully extended an invitation to join her and her family for dinner. When I learned that black garlic was to be the star ingredient, in my exuberance I nearly tackled her (quite uncivilized…and probably would not have won me second invitation). You see, it’s been on my long list of “must trys” that sits right next to my bulging folder of soup ideas….. Neither the fermented allium, nor the dinner left room for improvement. It was a fantastic evening on all accounts. Lindsay even sent me home with some garlic to “play around with”. Now that’s a friend!

Alone again and hoping to return the treat, I invited myself over…. with dinner in tow. I’m sure it was a sight……me crossing the green as if it were a live minefield. Fiercely concentrating, I gingerly walked this way and that way as I lugged a brimming pot of hot soup…….so sorry, no pictures. Years ago I attended a cooking class at A Southern Season and left absconded with the most glorious recipe for a Garlic Parmesan Broth which has since served as the base for many delicious meals in our home…..can you imagine this in risotto!!!! This time I added baby kale, tender cranberry beans from Rancho Gordo and finished it with a generous helping of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. That’s it! Lindsay’s mother Bonnie, AKA my massage therapist extraordinaire, kindly raved about the soup, but I’m willing to bet she adored dessert…Rich Homemade Ricotta. We set up a make-shift tasting bar with buttered crostinis, raw acacia honey, ridiculously aged balsamic, lavender vanilla sugar, strawberry preserves and soooo much more. Lindsay’s little boy surprised us all by diving right into the ricotta after bravely eating his greens and beans. Had onlookers witnessed this scene, instead of laughing as they might have at my awkward jaunt, they would have yearned to be part of our merry kitchen gathering. With each crostini sampled (and there were a lot) we continued to feed our friendship. Come to think of it, dessert lasted much longer than dinner.

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Baby Kale and Cranberry Beans in Garlic Parmesan Broth

Baby Kale and Cranberry Beans in Garlic Parmesan Broth

Ingredients

  • 1 lb dried cranberry beans
  • 1 cup yellow onion, small dice
  • 1 cup carrots, peeled and small dice
  • 1 cup celery, small dice
  • 12 cups Garlic Parmesan Broth
  • 5 oz baby kale
  • 1 TBSP kosher salt
  • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 TBSP extra-virgin olive oil
  • Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving

Instructions

  1. Pick through the dried beans and remove any little rocks or debris that may have gotten mixed in, then give them a vigorous rinse in a colander to remove dust and dirt. Place beans in a small stock pot and cover with water by 2 inches. Soak overnight (minimum 12 hours). I used Rancho Gordo beans and soaked them for 18 hours. Beans will have plumped up so add more water if necessary to maintain the 2” water bath.
  2. Heat 2 TBSP olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté the onion, carrot and celery until tender (about 10 minutes). Stir into the beans.
  3. Place the pot of beans on the stove and bring to a boil.
  4. Cover and simmer for 1-2 hours until the beans are tender and soft all the way through. Half way through the cooking you should start to smell a distinct bean aroma; this is when you add 1 TBSP of salt.
  5. Meanwhile, over medium heat warm the broth in a large pot (I used a 6.75 quart Dutch oven).
  6. Add the cooked beans, baby kale, pepper and stir until the greens are wilted (about 3 minutes).
  7. Taste for seasonings.
  8. Serve with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/04/08/new-friends/

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Garlic Parmesan Broth

Garlic Parmesan Broth

Adapted from A Southern Season cooking class.

When used in soup the pronounced flavor of the broth allows for simplicity in the other ingredients. In fact, it demands it.

Ingredients

  • 14 cups homemade chicken broth
  • 2 heads of garlic
  • 8 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds (about 5)
  • 16 stems Italian parsley
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 20 fresh sage leaves
  • 16 fresh thyme sprigs
  • 1 tsp whole allspice berries
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • 2 tsp black peppercorns
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

  1. Separate the garlic cloves from the head and crush them with the flat side of a chef’s knife to remove the skins. This is a sticky job!
  2. In stock pot (I used a 6 quart) combine all the ingredients EXCEPT for the olive oil.
  3. Cover and over medium heat bring to a simmer.
  4. Once a simmer has been reached, only partially cover the pot and simmer on low heat for 45 minutes.
  5. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and discard the solids.
  6. Stir in the oil.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/04/08/new-friends/

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Rich Homemade Ricotta

Rich Homemade Ricotta

Homemade ricotta can be dessert or a savory snack. Try the sweet toppings above or enjoy it with fresh herbs, a drizzle of olive oil, roasted red peppers, a special finishing salt.......

Ingredients

  • 4 cups whole milk
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 4 TBSP freshly squeezed lemon juice

Instructions

  1. Line a fine mesh sieve with two layers of dampened cheesecloth (to remove lint and help it stick to the sieve) and position it over a large bowl.
  2. In a 4 quart saucepan (a stock pot will also work) combine the milk and cream.
  3. Stir in the salt.
  4. Turn the heat to medium and bring to a boil. Stir a few times during the heating and boiling.
  5. Once it reaches a full boil (about 15 minutes), reduce the heat to very, very low and stir in the lemon juice.
  6. Cook for 3 minutes. You will start to see some separation of curd-like particles and whey (liquid).
  7. Remove from heat and allow the mixture to stand for 30 minutes.
  8. Gently ladle the mixture into the lined sieve and drain for 30 minutes. After the first 10 minutes of draining you will probably need to discard the collected liquid so that it can continue to drain. For a thicker consistency let it drain for 45 minutes.
  9. Transfer the ricotta to a bowl and enjoy any number of ways!
  10. Serve immediately (my favorite) or at room temperature.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/04/08/new-friends/

Notes:

  1. I’ve been told to use the least pasteurized dairy you can find because the more pasteurization the less curdling success you will have. Here in NC, I use Maple View Dairy which can be found at Whole Foods.
  2. Try not to over stir. This disrupts the curds.
  3. ENJOYING THIS WARM RIGHT AFTER IT’S MADE IS AN ALMOST INDESCRIBEABLE PLEASURE. THERE IS NOTHING SO DECANDANT, CREAMY AND PURE.  Room temperature also works, but don’t miss an opportunity to taste it in its most fresh form.
  4. If you don’t have fresh lemon juice, 3 TBSP of white wine vinegar can be substituted.  The texture, however, will not be as creamy and the flavor will be less delicate.
  5. Provided you don’t devour it within the first 24-hours it will last about 5 days.
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1 Comment Filed Under: Cheese, Greens, Homemade Stock, Legumes, Other Than Soup

Chicken Soup for the Soul…and Sanity

March 28, 2013

When I’m feeling out of control or in an uncomfortable situation, I tend to cook to cope. This isn’t surprising as food is an ageless medium to express emotions and manage situations. To celebrate, honor, negotiate we eat. Not to mention, to nurture, grieve, mend we cook. You get it.

Months ago I spent a few days sans husband with my in-laws, and so you understand the gravity of this statement, this is not common practice in our relationship. We go in pairs. Please refer to your imagination for a complete explanation. My husband’s mother is fiercely independent so overtures to assist her are always coolly rebuffed. Until now. She had surgery and accepted an offer from me to come to NY and “visit” for a few days while she recovers. It was only natural- for her sake and mine- that I should make a pot of chicken soup.  I encountered a dilemma though because the other non-cooking chores interfered with the preparation of homemade stock. I know it’s extreme, but since I started making my own stock I’d almost rather go without soup (gasp) than use store bought. I did a few searches and discovered a Cooks Illustrated recipe that promised a rich soup in 90 minutes without the aid of canned broths or bouillon cubes. Wow! The broth was so rich and complex had I not divulged that homemade stock was not an ingredient no one would have been the wiser. So, yes, I highly recommend making this in pinch. It will taste like you devoted hours of love to it and I promise to keep your secret!

Like most soups we enjoyed this the next day for lunch when it proved to be even better. As for me, a few days….. and a few meals later…….. I left with my sanity intact and some unexpected sweet memories.

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Shortcut Chicken Noodle Soup

Shortcut Chicken Noodle Soup

Adapted from Cooks Illustrated Hearty Chicken Noodle Soup.

Ingredients

  • 3 TBSP vegetable oil
  • 4 lb chicken, breasts removed and the remaining chopped into 2” pieces (you can ask your butcher to do this)
  • 1 large onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 head of garlic cut in half crosswise
  • 2 quarts boiling water
  • ¾ cup white wine, divided
  • 2 bay leaves
  • A few springs each of 3 types of herbs (I like thyme, dill and tarragon, but use what you have)
  • 1 cup carrots (about 2-4), peeled, small dice
  • 1 cup celery (about 2 stalks), small dice
  • 1 medium zucchini, small dice
  • 4 ounces egg noodles
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 tsp whole black peppercorns
  • 3 tsp kosher salt
  • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Dry chicken breasts and pieces with a paper towel.
  2. Heat 2 TBSP of oil in Dutch oven (I use 6.75 quart) over medium-high heat; when the oil shimmers (about 5-7 minutes) add chicken breasts and sauté until brown on both sides, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside. When cool enough to handle remove the skin.
  3. Add the remaining chicken and sauté 10 minutes; flip half way through. Remove and set aside.
  4. Add onions and sauté until slightly soft and golden, about 5 minutes.
  5. Deglaze the pot with about ¼ cup of white wine scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon to get all the delicious brown bits off and into your stock.
  6. Return chicken pieces (excluding breasts) to the pot and reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.
  7. Increase heat to high; add boiling water, ½ cup of white wine, herb trio, garlic, chicken breasts, 2 tsp salt, 1 tsp peppercorns and bay leaves. Return to simmer, cover and gently simmer until chicken breasts are cooked and broth is rich and flavorful, about 20 minutes.
  8. Remove chicken breasts and when cool enough to handle shred the meat from the bone into bite sized pieces.
  9. Strain broth and discard all the solids.
  10. Add 1 TBSP of oil to the pot and sauté the carrot, celery and zucchini on medium-high heat until softened (about 5 minutes).
  11. Add broth, chicken, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper and simmer until vegetables are tender and flavors meld, 10 to 15 minutes.
  12. Add noodles and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes.
  13. Taste for seasoning, stir in parsley, and serve.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/03/28/chicken-soup-for-the-soul-and-sanity/

Notes:

  1. For the chicken not to stick to the pan, your oil must be HOT not warm.
  2. To remove excess fat, I strained the broth through a fat separator. This isn’t critical, but I think it makes for a cleaner tasting soup.
  3. If you don’t intend to enjoy all of the soup in one seating, cook the noodles separately and add as needed, otherwise, they will absorb all the broth.
  4. I neglected to break my noodles up before adding them to the soup. This colossal oversight caused them to slip off my spoon and drop into the bowl like big, wet messy cannonballs. Consider yourself warned.

 

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3 Comments Filed Under: Poultry Tagged With: , ,

THE Gift

March 16, 2013

On Valentine’s Day I stumbled upon an exquisite gem. It was reminiscent of familiar, yet long passed, aromas and tastes from my Oma’s kitchen. I was in an authentic German bakery in Grapevine, Texas that just happens to be in walking distance from our provisional housing. I arrived at its threshold a bit chilly only to be warmed head-to-toe by the heat of the ovens and moved forward by the smells of freshly baked breads and sweets mingling in the air. Almost instinctively I found the streusel. Seductively positioned juuuusssstttt out of reach and looking enticingly similar to my Oma’s. Could it be? There was only one way to find out…..and that my friends is how apple streusel proudly became #1 of 7 to go home with me.  Good thing I was walking.

While ringing up my treasures, Emily, who is German, unknowingly gave me the sweetest Valentine of all time by simply saying my name in her native tongue, “Eh-Rih-Kah”……had I closed my eyes (I didn’t figuring it would creep her out) it could have been my Oma calling to me in her thick accent, only without the excited intonation that arises from reuniting with a loved one. For so many obvious reasons, both body and soul, Breadhaus beckons to become a ritual once I settle in to my new surroundings.

Hoping to prolong my trip down memory lane, I skipped to the kitchen (kidding, though it does sound fun) to make Oma’s goulash, although, not exactly her recipe….it was, err, not her most successful dish…so rather it was to be my interpretation of her weekly offering. Goulash can be a soup or a stew and is typically made with beef and vegetables and served with a starch like noodles, spaetzle, potatoes, dumplings or even a chunk of hearty bread. But what makes goulash “goulash” is the predominance of Hungarian paprika, a full, sweet peppery spice that kindly won’t blister your tongue. Historically, tough cuts of meat were braised for hours, but the friendlier, more convenient, “get dinner on the table fast” American version is often made with ground beef, a heavy tomato base and elbow macaroni…..not very appealing. Don’t worry, my version is neither. It’s more like the European Goulash and American Goulash got hitched and created a new generation of goulash that retains the convenience factor without neglecting the rich heartiness associated with a long, slow cooking process. Add a nice bottle of red, insert a toast to a much missed loved one and spend dinner recounting precious memories in their honor. A pretty perfect recipe any time of year.

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Gulashsuppe (Goulash Soup)

Gulashsuppe (Goulash Soup)

Use this recipe as a basic outline to create your family’s special version of goulash. More broth, less broth, peppers, corn, beans, carrots….maybe spicy sausage or ground lamb, perhaps turkey…try more tomatoes….vary the starch based on what’s in your pantry….the only rule is to maintain the paprika and be sure that it is FRESH, FRESH, FRESH!

Ingredients

  • 2 TBSP olive oil
  • 2 TBSP unsalted butter
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 2 cups yellow onion, medium chop (about 1 large)
  • 1 TBSP minced garlic (about 3 cloves)
  • ¼ cup Hungarian sweet paprika
  • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper (1/2 tsp if you want more of a kick)
  • 1 TBSP caraway seeds (toasted and crushed in a mortar and pestle)
  • 1 lb grass fed ground sirloin
  • ½ lb ground pork
  • 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ½” dice
  • 3 TBSP tomato powder
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes, chopped in food processor (3-5 pulses)
  • ¼ cup dry red wine
  • 6 cups homemade chicken broth
  • 8 oz elbow macaroni
  • 1 ½ tsp kosher salt
  • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • Sour cream for serving
  • Freshly chopped Italian flat leaf parsley for serving

Instructions

  1. In a large Dutch oven (I use a 9 quart) heat the oil and butter over medium heat.
  2. Add the onion, sprinkle with sugar and sauté for 8-10 minutes until soft and translucent.
  3. Add the garlic and caraway and cook for 1 minute.
  4. Stir in the paprika and cayenne and cook for 1 minute.
  5. Add the ground meats, along with the red pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, breaking up the meat, until no pink remains.
  6. Stir in the tomato powder, 1 tsp salt and ½ black pepper. Cook for 1 minute.
  7. Pour in the tomatoes (and their juices), stock, bay leaves and ½ tsp salt.
  8. Bring to a simmer, partially cover and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove the bay leaves.
  9. Stir in the wine.
  10. Meanwhile in a separate pot of salted water, cook the pasta per package instructions until al dente.
  11. Incorporate the drained macaroni into the soup and gently reheat for 2-3 minutes.
  12. Taste for seasonings.
  13. Serve with a dollop of cool sour cream and freshly chopped parsley.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/03/16/the-gift/

Notes:

  1. This soup is exceptional the next day. The flavors meld and the fat solidifies on the surface so you can skim it off and discard. Simply make the noodles on the day you intend to eat it.
  2. Definitely do not forgo the sour cream. It really elevates the dish and offers an exciting contrast to the other flavors and temperatures.
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3 Comments Filed Under: Beef Tagged With: , , ,

Soup and Salad

March 3, 2013

I recently read that the more options there are the more unhappy human beings become.  At first blush this defies logic because we are conditioned to regard options as positive, empowering and opportunities for self-expression. However, when the bulk of the options presented are attractive (like the menu at my favorite restaurant) we often feel like we’ve somehow compromised, which detracts from the winning selection leaving you a bit unfulfilled.  My husband and I are fortunate to be in the process of building a new home and are taking great pains to design it in a way that will cradle us, and if the vision prevails, become our sanctuary. The challenge? Those pesky options…

It can be strange where you stumble upon parallels, but this weekend I found myself comparing making soup to building a house. With all we have going on (did I mention we are relocating to Texas?), I envisioned a simple “soup and salad” as salvation from the chaos. Yet, my attempt to bring this calm to fruition became thwarted by options (creamy, brothy, kale, spinach, healthy, cheesy, beef, chicken…Ahhh!!!)….my mind wouldn’t focus. I guess with the realization of moving, selling a house, temporary housing, construction, saying too many good-byes, life as we know changing forever, I simply couldn’t make any more decisions. But to be clear, I DIDN’T WANT ANYONE ELSE MAKING THEM EITHER.

I finally pulled it together and went to my safe place…Ina’s cookbooks.  Her Roasted Potato Leek soup is the definition of upscale comfort food…and comfort is what I yearned for. To balance its decadence, I gravitated (in a strangely subconscious manner I have yet to identify….) to Deb Perlman’s Kale Salad with Cherries and Pecans. I was so tickled with the dinner, so lost in the rich, nourishing flavors that about half way through I realized I’d found peace. I was no longer hungering for what could have been, but wanted just what was in that moment. I found that switch in my head that allows you to commit to a decision and not lament it.  We aren’t perfect. Our decisions aren’t perfect and we live in world that increasingly expands our options not limits them, so we must find a way to own them and not the other way around. I want to be grateful for what’s available to me and enjoy it presently versus living in fabricated disappointment.  There is always something else you could have chosen or “more” to consume, but what is enough. I think it’s something you have to keep reminding yourself of….over and over….and over… and over…..especially when we it’s time to select furniture!

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Roasted Potato Leek Soup

Roasted Potato Leek Soup

Adapted from Ina Garten’s Back to Basics Cookbook….. and one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. We prefer this soup thick and hearty, however, it can be thinned out by adding 1-2 cups of additional stock. I stuck to the recipe and went with arugula, but I’m thinking spinach next time….

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1" pieces
  • 4 cups chopped leeks (about 4 large), white and light green parts chopped into 1" cylinders
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 3 cups baby arugula
  • ½ cup white wine (I used Pinot Grigio)
  • 5 cups homemade chicken broth
  • ¾ cup heavy cream
  • 8 oz crème fraiche
  • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for garnishing
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Fried Shallots for garnishing

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
  2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  3. Place potatoes and leeks on baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper. Mix with your hands to be sure each piece is coated. They should be in a single layer.
  4. Roast for 20 minutes. Stir.
  5. Roast for another 20 minutes. Stir.
  6. Meanwhile, gently warm the chicken broth in a saucepan over medium heat.
  7. Add arugula to the baking sheet with the potatoes and leeks. Roast for 5 minutes. The vegetables should be fork tender and the arugula wilted. Remove and place in a Dutch oven (I used at 6.75 quart) along with the chicken broth.
  8. Using an immersion blender, blend to your preferred consistency. Return the pot to the stove and gently reheat over medium.
  9. Stir in the wine, heavy cream, 2 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper.
  10. Whisk in the crème fraiche and Parmigiano Reggiano.
  11. Taste for seasonings.
  12. Serve with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and shallots.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/03/03/soup-and-salad/

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Crispy Shallots

From Ina Garten's Back to Basics cookbook.

And, yes, my crispy shallots are a bit more "golden" than yours should be.

Ingredients

  • 1 ¼ cups canola oil
  • 3 TBSP unsalted butter
  • 5 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

Instructions

  1. In a 2 quart saucepan, heat oil and butter over medium-low heat until candy thermometer measures 220 degrees.
  2. Add shallots and cook for 30-40 minutes until golden brown. The temperature will initially drop when you add the shallots so you must increase the heat slightly to maintain the temperature.
  3. While cooking, do not go above 260 degrees; try to maintain a range of 230-250 degrees.
  4. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel lined plate.
  5. They will store covered for a week.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/03/03/soup-and-salad/

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Craving

February 15, 2013

The Black Eyed Peas may have a feeling, but I have a craving. A big one. HUGE! Leaves me wondering if this is what it’s like to have a pregnancy craving, an incessant desire that gone unanswered grows in compounded fashion, dominating your thoughts until obliged to its satisfaction.  I need some cannellini beans….mingled with aromatics and puréed into a smooth earthy goodness. Laced with garlic and rosemary… I envision a finishing swirl of olive oil dripping over toasted rosemary breadcrumbs ………

Unfortunately this craving hit like a freight train while I was sitting in a hotel room far from my kitchen, a fact that probably only served to make me want it more. You know the old saying, “you want what you can’t have”. Luckily the trip was short one (narrowly saving my husband from hearing about this for the one millionth time) and upon our return I made dash to the grocery for necessary provisions.

My initial attraction, years ago, to this soup was rooted in health. Beans, garlic, olive oil…all high on the “good for you list”. It’s funny, this elixir hasn’t changed, but over the years my attraction has. I crave it not for its wholesomeness, although I do appreciate it, but for its pronounced flavor and rustic charm.  It conjures visions of candlelit country kitchens with marred farmhouse tables that I find quite romantic…..and am starting to crave.

 

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Rosemary Cannellini Bean Soup

Rosemary Cannellini Bean Soup

Adapted from Ina Garten’s Rosemary White Bean Soup.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb dried cannellini beans
  • 4 cups yellow onions (about 2 large), medium chop
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 3 TBSP minced garlic (about 9 cloves)
  • 8 cups homemade chicken broth (or 6 cups for a thicker consistency)
  • 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, rolled in cheesecloth and tied with kitchen string
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2-3 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp freshly ground pepper

Instructions

  1. Pick through the dried beans and remove any little rocks or debris that may have gotten mixed in. Then give them a vigorous rinse in a colander to remove dust and dirt. Place beans in a small stock pot and cover with water by 2 inches. Soak overnight (minimum 12 hours).
  2. Drain and rinse the beans. Set aside.
  3. In a 6 quart stock pot heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 10 minutes until soft and translucent. If the onions start to brown reduce the heat to medium-low.
  4. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute until beautifully fragrant.
  5. Add the beans, broth, bay leaves and rosemary.
  6. Increase heat to high and cover. Once it comes to a boil reduce heat enough to maintain a simmer.
  7. Simmer for 60-70 minutes until the beans are tender.
  8. Discard the bay leaves and rosemary.
  9. Remove 2 cups of the soup and place in a small bowl.
  10. Off the heat, use an immersion blender to puree the soup to your preference.
  11. Return the pot to the heat, add the reserved 2 cups of soup, salt and pepper and gently reheat over a low flame.
  12. Garnish with Toasted Rosemary Breadcrumbs (recipe follows), freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a swirl of extra-virgin olive oil.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/02/15/craving/

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Toasted Rosemary Breadcrumbs

These are so versatile that you’ll find yourself sprinkling them on pasta, salads, eggs, roasted vegetables….

Ingredients

  • 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
  • 1 fresh rosemary sprig
  • 1 ½ TBSP olive oil
  • Kosher salt

Instructions

  1. Turn the broiler to Hi.
  2. Pulse ¼ loaf of day old bread in a food processor until it’s reduced to medium to fine size breadcrumbs.
  3. Put 1 cup of the breadcrumbs in a bowl and use a fork to mix in 1 ½ TBSP olive oil until fully combined and all of the crumbs are coated.
  4. Finely mince the rosemary leaves and stir into the breadcrumbs.
  5. Spread the mixture in a thin layer on a baking sheet.
  6. Broil for 2 minutes. Watch them! They brown fast.
  7. Sprinkle with salt and enjoy.
  8. These are best the day you make them, but can be may a day ahead if necessary. Store at room temperature.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/02/15/craving/

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Chicken “Stuff”

January 30, 2013

Fond memories of my mother’s ex-husband are hard to come by, but as a byproduct of his Italian heritage he was passionate about food. He reveled in the pure pleasure of it and was always eager to share….to enlighten. These journeys culminated in uncomplicated dishes. Comprised of a few seasonal ingredients that allowed the uniqueness of each component to be truly noticed and savored. This inclination to cooking was no doubt influenced by his mother who bestowed upon us “Chicken Stuff”. A creamy, stew-like soup laden with celery and wonderfully shredded roast chicken. Quickly, it became part of our weekly dinner rotation and then….forgotten. College, marriage, mom’s sayonara to #3 and a simply crazed pace that characterizes so many of our lives had all but banished it from my memory (that and probably a subconscious desire to keep #3 at the proverbial curb we so happily kicked him to!).

This blog will all be worth it if for only rediscovering this family favorite. My husband loves chicken AND celery, so accolades were only a pot of soup away….until it seemed the recipe slipped away with the divorce papers. Beyond chicken, celery, stew-like and the well-used name “Chicken Stuff” I had no other details and after a frenzied search, my mother couldn’t come up with the recipe. This left me no choice but to create my personalized version.  A few iterations later we got a winner! I’ve also renamed it Tarragon Celery Soup with Chicken and Rice. However, as appealing as the updated name is, in my jewel box of private memories, it will forever remain “Chicken Stuff”.

P.S. The husband thinks it would benefit from a few mushrooms. Reluctantly, I must agree….if you like mushrooms.

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Tarragon Celery Soup with Chicken and Rice

Tarragon Celery Soup with Chicken and Rice

This soup is gets it’s pizzazz from the interplay of the herbs and dry vermouth- a fortified white wine with sublime botanical, herbal characteristics. As sophisticated as the flavors are it remains a deeply satisfying comfort food.

Ingredients

  • 1 stick and 1 TBSP unsalted butter, room temperature, divided
  • 2 TBSP olive oil
  • 4 cups shredded chicken from 2-3 large bone-in, skin on chicken breasts
  • 1 cup half & half
  • 1/2 cup dry vermouth
  • 10 cups homemade chicken broth
  • 5 cups celery, diced (about 13 stalks)
  • 2 cups yellow onion, medium chop (about 1 large)
  • 1 TBSP garlic, minced (about 3 cloves)
  • 3 TBSP ground dried porcini mushrooms
  • 8 TBSP flour
  • 1 ½ cup Arborio rice
  • 2 TBSP each of freshly chopped thyme, parsley
  • 3 TBSP freshly chopped tarragon
  • Pecorino Romano for garnish

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350 and line a baking sheet with foil (for easy clean-up).
  2. Rub chicken breasts with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast for 45-60 minutes until the juices run clear (length of time will depend on the thickness of the breasts.) When cool enough to handle, shred the chicken and set aside.
  3. In a large sauce pan, heat the chicken stock until hot and keep it so. Do not boil.
  4. While the chicken roasts, over medium heat melt 1 TBSP butter and 2 TBSP olive oil in a Dutch oven (I use a 9 quart). Add the onions and saute for 8-10 minutes until soft and translucent.
  5. Add the celery, cover, reduce heat to medium-low and cook for another 10 minutes.
  6. Stir in the garlic and mushroom powder and cook, stirring continuously, for 1 minute.
  7. Add 1 stick of butter and stir until melted.
  8. Stir in flour and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly until no raw flour smell remains.
  9. Turn off the heat and stir in ¼ cup of hot stock. Repeat 3 more times being sure to scrape any flour mixture that collects on the bottom and sides of the pot.
  10. Return heat to medium and stir in the remaining stock.
  11. Bring to a simmer.
  12. Add the rice and cook for 15 minutes; stir frequently.
  13. Reduce to low and add the chicken, vermouth, salt, pepper, herbs and half and half.
  14. Reheat for 10 minutes.
  15. Taste for seasonings.
  16. Serve with freshly grated Pecorino Romano.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/01/30/chicken-stuff/

Note:

Grind the dried mushrooms in a coffee grinder. Simply clean out the coffee grounds first by grinding some dried white rice and wiping it out with a paper towel. Recleanse after preparing the mushrooms.

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2 Comments Filed Under: Celery, Poultry, Rice, Stew

Make this first.

January 19, 2013

Looking for a creamy luscious tomato soup? Start with homemade chicken broth. Craving a nourishing bowl of chicken noodle? You need homemade chicken broth. How about chunky corn chowder? Homemade chicken broth. The homemade stuff is what makes soup special, taking it from flat to complex and vivacious. If you’re not accustomed to using it, I implore you to try it just once…pretty please. (Can you hear me whining? I know it’s a bit annoying, but I won’t stop until you promise.) It will be an awakening. Dramatic? Yes. True? Also yes. You will be darn right flabbergasted at how easy it is and then find yourself “taking a moment” as you relish that first spoonful. At this point you might even start to gloat a bit at your recent accomplishment. Go ahead. You deserve it! I do…..every time.

There is no definitive “recipe” on how to make chicken broth from scratch, rather there are philosophies and preferences. As fundamental as it is, it’s a remarkably debated process, a fact I was oblivious to until I started to research it in greater depth. I also discovered that some techniques were a little obsessive for my kitchen….I’m planning on eating the broth not exhibiting it. Seriously, when food becomes too precious we’ve reached a point of indulgence that I find embarrassing. Where the consensus lies though, is in the requirement to make homemade broth first and stock your freezer so it’s always on hand to build beautifully delicious meals.

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Homemade Chicken Broth

It will take about 6 hours, so plan to spend the afternoon around the house, but certainly not chained to the kitchen. While it’s simmering away on the stove you can clean the house (oh, joy), catch up on email, read a good book….maybe even take a nap. You’ll find homemade broth only needs a little encouragement. It’s quite independent and VERY delicious.

Ingredients

  • 15 lbs whole organic chicken (3-5 depending on size), no giblets
  • 3 large onions, peeled and cut in half
  • 6 carrots, peeled and cut in thirds
  • 4 celery stalks, cut in thirds (no leaves)
  • 1 head of garlic, unpeeled and cut in half
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 TBSP kosher salt
  • 30 springs fresh Italian flat leaf parsley
  • 20 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 TBSP black peppercorns
  • Filtered water

Instructions

  1. Put your chickens in a 20 quart stock pot and place on the stove.
  2. Add just enough filtered water to cover the chickens by about 2 inches.
  3. Over medium heat, bring to a simmer. Resist the urge to bring the water to a boil as it will make your broth cloudy. This will take about 2 hours. Religiously skim off the foam that forms on the top. It’s impurities and congealed protein that will adversely affect flavor and clarity.
  4. Meanwhile, prep your aromatics (vegetables and herbs) and place them together in a large bowl.
  5. Once the water really begins to bubble add the aromatics and salt. Lightly press them into the water, but do not stir (doing so will make a cloudy broth). Turn to medium-low and maintain a gentle simmer for three hours, uncovered. Do not stir.
  6. Add the peppercorns and simmer for another hour.
  7. Remove from heat, strain and discard the solids.
  8. Cool and refrigerate overnight and in the morning skim off any fat that has congealed on the surface. I’m a bit fanatical about this and like to use a fat separator as well. Who likes greasy stock?!
  9. I portion mine into quart containers.
  10. Use within 3 days or freeze up to 3 months.
  11. Yields 6-7 quarts.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/01/19/make-this-first/

A few (well, maybe more than a few) crucial tips:

  1. Don’t be tempted to use the shriveled up carrots stashed in the back of the crisper. If your ingredients aren’t fresh enough to eat, they won’t make a good stock.
  2. Use as little water as possible. The goal is to concentrate flavors.
  3. Simmer. Never boil. Boiling will mix the fat and impurities into the broth and compromise its clarity.
  4. Skim. When bringing the water to a simmer you will probably notice a disturbing gray foam. Its protein and impurities. Skim it off for a clear broth.
  5. Don’t stir. Once you reach a simmer resist the urge to move things around in the pot; doing so will make your broth cloudy.
  6. The more (and stronger) aromatics you use (vegetables and herbs) the less “chickeny” your broth will taste. Save the rosemary for your polenta!
  7. To reduce the fat content of the broth you can remove the chicken skin; this will lessen the need to skim so much as well.
  8. After chilling, you will notice that your broth is a bit gelatinous. This is perfectly normal and will resume its brothy texture once heated.
  9. In my opinion boiled chicken is pretty darn flavorless; however, my chicken loving, frugal husband finds the resulting breast meat perfectly acceptable for a mayonnaise laden chicken salad with all its glorious accoutrements to bump up the flavor. I’ll let you be the judge.
  10. Once fully frozen the broth will expand a bit so be sure to leave a little room in your container to accommodate for this.
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“…a few of my favorite things…”

January 9, 2013

With the holidays in the rearview mirror, I think it’s important to steal a moment and reflect on what has been and what it has all meant. To relish in its warmth and to let go of its disappointments. It’s a way to commit things to memory and cleanse at the same time. Hopefully for most of us, the holidays are laced with traditions that celebrate our favorites and reinforce their status in our lives.

This time of year always finds my heart drifting to my late Oma and Opa and Christmas Eve’s spent slumbering on their bumpy, musty pull out. I’d lie there as decorated branches dangled overhead casting a rainbow glow across my pillow. I’d finally drift to sleep intoxicated from the piney air and lulled by chatter flowing from the kitchen where I imagined the adults were toasting with Jägermeister and eagerly anticipating our bustling Christmas as much as I was.  Those days I was giddy with excitement and willed myself to sleep with all my might hoping that morning was only a blink away. I didn’t think this heaven could ever be replaced or even rivaled until I met my husband and started spending Christmas with his Aunt Joan and Uncle Bob….now my Aunt Joan and Uncle Bob too!  A definite perk of marriage.

The four of us make for an intimate gathering, a drastic contrast to Christmas at my grandparents where our herd of 40+ spilled into adjoining rooms, cramming our fannies into any open nook, arm rest or lap. Like Oma and Opa, Aunt Joan and Uncle Bob always make you feel like they’ve been waiting all day just for you to arrive. Like nothing and no one matters more than you. It’s an embrace they give everyone, but because they do it so well, I cling to childlike innocence that it’s just for me.

Besides Christmas and my beloved aunt and uncle, it’s pretty clear that the Barefoot Contessa is one of my favorite things. Her warmth and charm spills into your home ….rousing in me that familiar feeling of “special”. Her new cookbook, Foolproof, happens to have a recipe for another of my favorite things…tomato soup, this time with the allure of saffron. As our small group sat around the table a few days before Christmas, sharing bowls of this simple soup, we fiercely debated the fiscal cliff and clashed (loudly in typical McCaw fashion) for what seemed like hours over political philosophies and the future of our great nation. However, even amongst the clatter, it was hard not to take note of the love we all share for each other and the special ways we each try to represent this truth.  My soup may have been a modest offering on the surface, but our time at the table, reminiscing, dreaming, even “arguing” was powerful.  A perfect moment in time.

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Chunky Tomato Soup with Saffron

Chunky Tomato Soup with Saffron

Adapted from Ina Garten's Easy Tomato Soup from her Foolproof cookbook.

This soup comes together so quickly making it ideal for the hustle and bustle of the holidays. The genius addition (thanks Ina!) of saffron makes it special and worth the splurge.

Ingredients

  • 2 TBSP olive oil
  • 2 cups chopped yellow onion (about 1 large)
  • 1 TBSP minced garlic (about 3 cloves)
  • 4 cups homemade chicken stock
  • 28 oz can crushed tomatoes
  • 1 cup tomato puree (I like Pomi)
  • 2 generous pinches of saffron threads
  • ½ cup orzo
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 1 TBSP kosher salt
  • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Heat the olive oil over medium in large Dutch oven (I use a 6.75 quart).
  2. Add the onions and reduce the flame to medium low. Cook for 15 minutes until lightly brown; stir about every 5 minutes.
  3. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
  4. Add the stock, tomatoes, puree, salt, pepper and saffron and bring to a boil.
  5. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
  6. Meanwhile cook the orzo in salted boiling water for 7 minutes.
  7. Add the drained orzo to the soup and simmer for 10 minutes.
  8. Turn off the heat and let the soup cool for 3-5 minutes.
  9. Add the cream and gently reheat. DO NOT BOIL OR YOUR CREAM WILL CURDLE.
  10. Taste for seasonings.
http://www.glassjarsoupcompany.com/2013/01/09/a-few-of-my-favorite-things/

Notes about saffron:

  1. Saffron’s distinctive flavor is hinged on a sweet grassiness. It lends a brilliant yellow-red hue to dishes like risotto and is the signature flavor in a classic bouillabaisse. It’s actually the dried stigmas of the crocus flower. A little goes a long way, which is good because it is expensive. In fact, its delicate nature requires that it be harvested by hand making it the most expensive spice in the world.
  2. When purchasing, don’t be tempted by saffron powder, always opt for threads. I’m sure many powders are perfectly fine; however, they can be comprised with less desirable saffron and “enhanced” with color additives.
  3. Select deep red saffron threads for more intense flavor and aroma.  Yellow, orange threads will be weak and not worth the investment.
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